Mon May 6- On our flight from Nepal to South Africa we had a nightly layover (from 2am till 7am) in Qatar. To make this long wait somewhat more comfortable, we had brought our Thermarests (blow up mattresses) and camped out at the airport! We had a comfortable 2 hour sleep. We would highly recommend bringing a camping-mat on all stop flights.
An uneventful flight was followed by a beautiful sunset as the airplane made its final approach into Cape Town. With the airport formalities done, we picked up our rental Hyundai i10 and made our way to the suburb of Constantia. Around 8 we arrived at Constantia Vista where the owner Ian let us into our apartment- certainly a step up from a basic tea house!
Tue May 7- The beds in Nepal were hard and it was noisy, but in Constantia the bed was bliss and it was dead quiet. We could not remember the last time we had slept this well! Well rested we immediately drove to the supermarket to stock up on 'normal' food. We bought milk, yoghurt, fruit, bread, cheese, vegetables and ice-cream - the items that were hard to get in Nepal. We enjoyed our delicious cereal breakfast on the balcony of our apartment overlooking a vineyard with the ocean in the background. The weather was sunny, around 20C / 70F, and the dry air made it comfortable.
By mid morning it was time to go and explore the area. We decided to drive towards the Cape via Chapman's drive. While we were driving along the coast we passed a parking area for Chapman's Peak. Even though we were unsure which of the peaks around us was Chapman's, we decided to give it a go. It turned out to be a one-hour climb to the summit, where had lunch overlooking Hout Bay and the ocean. A surprisingly nice walk, with a lovely view and no other people. (If you go and want to do this walk: where the path splits and there is no sign, turn right- this was a lucky guess for us!)
We continued on to Cape Point, the southern tip of the Cape (not Cape Cod). With a herd of tourists we went for a short walk to the lighthouse. We had wanted to walk from Cape Point to Kaap de Goede Hoop, but since it was already getting late, we drove. The Cape of Good Hope marked our 4th most southern landmass after South America, New Zealand and Tasmania; only Antarctica to go! At this well known geographical landmark we went for another stroll and saw the sunset. This great day ended with a good ole traffic jam and it took us 2 hours to get back to Constantia...
Wed May 8- The weather forecast had some rain in it, so we decided to go into the Cape Town city center. We had underestimated the popularity of Robben Island (where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned,) because even in the low-season the tour was fully booked for the next 3 days. After we had explored the waterfront we walked to the downtown area. Inspired by our guidebook, we visited the Jewish museum where they showed an interesting documentary about Mandela and how the Jewish people of South Africa helped to end apartheid. After this interesting new information, we went back to Constantia where we once more ate vegetables and drank a fine wine.
Thu May 9- Since we were in Cape Town we of course had to climb Table Mountain! Our plan was to go for a longer day-walk and climb to the top from the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens- a tip we had received from Andrea, one of LB's residency colleagues. Even though the weather was nice, there was a persistent cloud on the top of Table Mountain. The lady at the information center strongly advised against trying to climb the mountain in bad weather. Hoping that the weather might clear later in the day, we decided to go for a walk through the gardens. To our good fortune a guided tour of the gardens was about to start (10am every day) and we were the only ones wanting to go on this free tour. Our expert volunteer guide, a charming knowledgeable lady, walked us through the beautiful gardens. Her botanical explanations were excellent, which for novices like ourselves made the garden much more interesting.
After the informative tour and delicious scones at the Kirstenbosch tea room, we decided to climb Lion's Head, a mountain next to the cloudy Table. It was a fun and steep climb to the top. Right below the summit chains had even been installed for extra handholds! The view of Cape Town, Table Mountain and the ocean with Robben Island was great - an excellent late lunch spot! We walked back to our car and spent the rest of the afternoon in Constantia.
Fri May 10- We left Constantia just after 8 and drove to the Cape Winelands - South Africa's prime wine-country. First we headed to Stellenbosch where Laura Beth's brother Adam had recommended the garden tour and lunch at Babylonstoren. Our second South African garden tour, this one more focused on food growing, was once again super interesting. A beautiful garden and vineyard set amongst the arid mountains. Our main conclusion: "We know very little about gardening." The lunch following the tour was phenomenal. We had a fantastic meal with produce from the garden we had just toured. And of course Babylonstoren wine. We especially enjoyed the Viognier; the first time we consciously drank this fine white wine.
After lunch we stopped for a wine tasting at the Villiera estate. The animated host did a great job explaining the different wines and was rather passionate about the 'pinotage' grape - a wine/grape mainly grown in South Africa. We liked Villiera's Cabernet better though and took a bottle home.
As we were driving to our B&B in Franschhoek we past a shopping center. We still had to pick up camping fuel ('benzine' in Afrikaans) and walked to the hardware store. There happened to be a small outdoor store next door where Maurits found a new pair of hiking boots! The store owner was great and Maurits was relieved to have proper boots for the Otter Trail. Happy and a little poorer we arrived at the Plumwood Inn B&B in Franschhoek. We were once again staying at a nice place. We could get used to this...
Sat May 11- Big wine day today! After a nice breakfast at the B&B, we started our day with a cellar tour at Haute Cabriere. The owner gave an entertaining tour and told us all about the vineyard's history and the wines that it grows - while we tasted the wines. Haute Cabriere grows (not produces!) a lot of champagne (brut) and we now know how the bubbles make it into the bottle.
For lunch we went to Bread & Wine at the Moreson estate where we had a delicious meal accompanied by the estate's wine. Lastly we went to "Vrede en Lust." This was the prettiest vineyard with a great tasting experience. We had a beautiful view overlooking the vineyard and mountains while tasting their excellent wines. After this busy day we went back to our B&B for a well deserved rest. For dinner we went to Bon Vivant; a restaurant in the town of Franschhoek. Let's just say: we love 5 course meals with wine pairing.
LSun May 12- Tomorrow we would begin the 5-day Otter Trail; so today we drove to Knysna (pronounce "nice-nah"), close to the Otter's starting point. From Franschhoek we started with a scenic coastal drive along Kogel Bay and the town of Hermanus. After lunch we just drove on the highway... but the scenery was just as good as the coast: red dirt and vast open spaces. We had underestimated today's driving time, South Africa is big, and so arrived after dark in Knysna. Given South Africa's reputation, our strategy was to only drive during daylight and reserve accommodation ahead of time. This way we would avoid driving accidentally to the wrong place at the wrong time. In order for this strategy to work, not only a reservation is needed, but also directions! This we learned the hard way as we rolled into Knysna without directions, but luckily there was a friendly staff at the petrol station who explained the way to the Panorama Lodge. After a yummy sushi dinner on the waterfront, we headed back to the B&B to pack our bags.
Mon May 13- Otter Trail Day 1- Storms River to Ngubu 4.8km (2 hours)
After breakfast we drove to Knysna's cliffs for a view of the ocean and the town. Knysna seemed to be a great town, right on the Garden Route, which we would have loved to explore more. But unfortunately no time, because we had to walk the Otter Trail! We drove one more hour east to the beach village of Nature's Valley - the end of the Otter Trail - where we parked our car. We had prearranged a transport to the start and at 10:30 Glenn drove us to Storms River.To quote Lonely Planet: "The 42km Otter Trail, hugging the coastline from Storms River Mouth to Nature’s Valley, is one of the most acclaimed hikes in South Africa. The walk, which lasts five days and four nights, involves fording a number of rivers and gives access to some superb stretches of coast."
We registered at the SANParks office and shortly thereafter we were on our way. No porter this time to carry our bag! The first 20 minutes of the walk was an easy downhill to the superb coast. The rock-hopping that followed lunch was not that easy, especially not with a heavy backpack. The scenery however was great. We passed many spectacular cliffs and a pretty waterfall. At 2:30 in the afternoon we arrived at the first overnight hut called Ngubu on a beautiful spot right on the ocean.
The Otter Trail allows 12 people per day to start. At each overnight stop there are actually 2 huts with a capacity of 6 people per hut. What a pleasant difference from New Zealand's 40 people in one bunk-room! We actually only hiked with a total of 8 people. Besides us there were two South African guys Jonathan and Daniel, a Swiss couple Bryn and Beatrice and a French couple Etienne and Julie.
Tue May 14- Otter Trail Day 2- Ngubu to Scott 7.9km (4 hours)
In general the days on the Otter Trail were not that long. Since the sun did not rise till 7 we took our time in the morning and did not leave till 9:30. Today's terrain was a little easier than yesterday; a lot less rock-hopping, but a lot of up and downs. Throughout the hike, the lower sections of the trail which were closer to the ocean were more difficult- mostly because of the rocky terrain requiring some scrambling. On top of the cliffs, sometimes 200 meters above the ocean, the trail was easier-going through forest and grasslands. The ocean views were great, especially with the waves crashing on the rocks. Around 2:30 we got to the Scott hut, once more a beautiful spot right on the beach!
Wed May 15- Otter Trail Day 3- Scott to Oakhurst 7.7km (4 hours)
Another easy day today with plenty of time to enjoy the nice views and weather. The terrain was similar on all 5 Otter days; we hiked at the bottom of the cliffs and on top of them. In addition to all the up and downs we had to cross two rivers, the Elandsbos and Lottering. Only on the first one did we have to take off our shoes. Around lunch we arrived at the Oakhurst hut, at the mouth of the Lottering river. We sat on the rocks and watched the waves crash; what a spot! Some guys went for an ocean swim, but we were of the opinion that the water was too cold. After the sun had disappeared we moved to the braai-place and warmed by the fire. It was never that cold, but cold enough to be happy sitting by the fire. Firewood was supplied by the national park and every night we made a fire. The South Africans Jonathan and Daniel had brought steak and braai-ed every night! We just had pasta... It was fun hanging out and chatting at the fire with our co-hikers!
Thu May 16- Otter Trail Day 4- Oakhurst to Andre 13.8km (6 hours)
Not only was this the longest day, but we also had to cross the biggest river. Unknowingly we were lucky with the timing of low tide. The optimal time to cross the Bloukrans river was 1:17pm (low tide.) Since the walk from Oakhurst to Andre would take about 4 hours, we could leave at 8:30! Much better than if low tide had been at 6am/pm. After an enjoyable morning walk we arrived at the Bloukrans River. The crossing was rather easy in only ankle deep water. The technical cliff-scrambling section after the crossing was much harder! Around 15:30 we arrived at the Andre hut where we saw our first african wildlife! LB scared - and got scared by - a deer. This last night we sat again by the braai-fire, had dinner and hung out with the gang.
Fri May 17- Otter Trail Day 5- Andre to Nature's Valley 6.8km (3 hours)
We slept with We shared the huts with all our co-hikers and all of them were very quiet during the night - all in all an excellent hut-experience! After another good night's sleep we awoke for our last short walk to Nature's Valley. It had rained a little during the night, our first rain, but today was nice again. We left at 8 and, after a pleasant walk, we were back at the pub around 11. We found the Otter Trail enjoyable: certainly the best coastal scenery of our world trip - a worthwhile hike!
After a delicious pub-food lunch we drove to Graaff-Reinet. Quite the drive actually, but the scenery made it bearable. By late afternoon we checked in at Aa'Qtansisi, a beautiful guesthouse in an old Victorian building. Good restauraunts in South Africa are much more affordable than in US/NL, so instead of the usual post-hiking pizza and beer we had wine and boboti!
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